The Legend of the Phoenix

In the Holiday Season of 2013, I embarked on my first International Flight. As my first solo trip, and also my first flight with layovers, I departed filled with anxiety. Yet I proudly strolled through O’Hare from terminal to terminal worry-free of missing my connecting flight. I landed in Heathrow worry-free of navigating the city to my hotel and various points of my itinerary. I landed at 6am refusing to sleep until that evening, despite not resting on the plane, in lieu of the unlikelihood that I would ever return, to seize every second of exploration I could manage. For similar reasons, I neglected a massive opportunity that could have completely flipped my life upside down: auditioning for Disney’s Star Wars Sequel Trilogy that took place an hour’s tube ride from downtown London. I don’t regret skipping this audition and avoiding the 8 hour wait only to be rejected at the last second because I don’t look like the character they had in mind (which from the stories I heard happened frequently). I don’t regret skipping this to instead explore one of the most gorgeous Botanic Gardens in the world (Kew Gardens, which includes to this day the most impressive Japanese Garden I have experienced), see a museum of crown jewels, and visit 221B Baker Street. I don’t regret this especially after watching the films, glad that I was never involved with those abominations. Although I don’t regret that audition, I do have a couple regrets in life, and they both happened on that trip.

The first is forgetting to try the iconic English Breakfast. At the time of this trip, I often ignored the breakfast meal in general, and so it never came to mind when traveling here to try one of their breakfasts until after I had left. This regret was rectified upon a return journey 11 years later. The second regret involves events at the end of the Euro trip, which I will warn you now is a long read away (the first draft of this document was written upon return to the states 12 years ago and is 26 pages long, an approximately 40 minute read. Although I am drafting this again from memory and not referencing the original, I suspect I’ll hit a similar length, so cease reading now, if you desire, until you have the free time available.)

My first day in London focused on casual exploration, hitting sites like Piccadilly Circus I recognized from Harry Potter. I devoted significant time searching for Platform 9 ¾, mostly because I discovered it’s not actually between platforms 9 and 10 like it is in the books but instead somewhere less impactful on traffic in a spacious clearing away from the train tracks. Most of my time in London consisted of touristy activities unfortunately, including the only ferris wheel in the world I am not scared of riding, the London Eye. I walked past Buckingham Palace, ventured across Hyde Park during its Christmas Market Season (a journey of endless stalls with varying products, often handmade). Since I would be visiting so many countries, and in the holiday season, I predetermined countries to purchase christmas gifts for my family. While navigating Hyde Park, I opted out of any purchases, and luckily too for, as I found out, almost all the other cities I would visit had Christmas Markets with near identical options. I did buy a christmas gift in London though, in the most beautiful outdoor outlet mall called Covent Garden: a box of traditional English Tea for my eldest brother. 

Wandering the streets of London continued on the second day, where I randomly crossed Drury Lane and hummed “Muffin Man” while contemplating a visit to his house, not knowing if such a place existed. Deciding against that, I instead visited Sherlock’s home, disappointingly discovering it to be purely a gift shop. I wandered out to the aforementioned Covent Garden, a magnificent union of shopping and entertainment in an automobile-free and Italian-inspired piazza full of lush decor and posh boutiques (at least that’s how I remember it; the ‘natural decoration’ was just Christmas decor as my photographs reminded me).

Covent Garden during the Holiday season.

Of the 4 days I spent in London, 3 were completely solo. A semi-local (a young man who worked a summer camp with my brother years’ prior I had met only briefly beforehand) took a train down from Nottingham to join me on the Saturday for a special event I was able to use as leverage to convince my parents to let me even go on this trip: Doctor Who’s 50th Anniversary. Interestingly, this was also the only day of the 4 I got lost exploring the city, with a local of all things.

The Anniversary Celebration Event included tickets to a theater showing (I don’t know why but I remember admiring the theater’s impressive aesthetic difference from US theaters), a photo op with the Tardis free of charge, and a panel of guests starring the cast of the time: Matt Smith, Jenna Coleman and Showrunner Steven Moffat. In another room, Graham Norton ran a few interviews for his radio show where I was able to snag a picture with him. Even back then I felt hesitant to engage celebrities of any caliber, imagining a vast quantity of fans must approach them daily. Thankfully Graham Norton felt unfazed by my request and I was satisfied with his photo alone that I had no desire to pursue the stars of the show. It’s not like David Tennant was there anyway. I generally prefer avoiding conventions like this, too many people for my taste, and given that the show is Britain’s most popular production, the crowd was even larger than I’d typically tolerate. Yet I managed to still enjoy it enough somehow. 

The final day led me to Shakespeare’s Globe Theater. I had initially completely forgotten the Globe existed and would never have considered a visit without accidentally passing by it as I crossed the modern London Bridge III. It would have been truly magical to watch a play there, but the tour guide permitted visitors on stage, so I still experienced some of that magic. Succeeding the Globe was the famous Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, which even with a diminished recollection 11 years later (most of which is its massive Japanese Garden displaying several pagodas that metaphorically transported me across the globe and became a progenitor for my obsession with Japan and its culture), remains a top nomination for the “most impressive sight” award among the likes of The Louvre, the majestic Swiss Alps, a towering Volcan Arenal and the reflecting waters of Grand Teton. 

Shakespeare’s Globe Theater.

After my activities in London, I grouped with a tour company that would escort me across the rest of Western Europe. Our tour guide greeted us via ‘mini games’, the first being a continuation of one of the guide’s trip traditions. That same year, Daft Punk released their final album Random Access Memories. So per his tradition, the group nominated to begin all of the next 19 mornings with a listen to that album’s biggest hit, “Get Lucky.” The second ‘mini-game’ occurred slightly later after a short stop in Belgium Chocolate Shop en route to Amsterdam. The guide assigned every one a partner, utilizing a sort of ‘speed dating’ technique, mostly to get to know some of the people we’d be traveling with for the next few weeks but as part of this game also we were tasked with giving our partners a dare to commit before the trips’ end. I cannot honestly remember the dare I gave my partner, Kelsey, or even if I gave a dare or let her choose her own (though knowing how this story ends I’d call the latter more likely true). The entire situation was rather overwhelming for me, surrounded by one Canadian, 46 Australians and a half dozen South Africans (seriously I don’t know what I enjoyed more, the sights or the accents), a strange world, with a tendency to keep to myself. I appreciated the efforts taken to acclimatize with the group but it wouldn’t happen so easily for me. What I do remember is the dare assigned to me, which I did not complete until near the end of the trip, so I’ll not divulge further information about it until its relevance in the narrative. 

Following the day in Belgium and these introductory games, the group ventured to the Netherlands. I grew up in a town colonized by the Dutch, annually celebrating its heritage with a Tulip Time Festival, and while in the Netherlands we happened to coincidentally pop into a workshop that assisted with the production of clogs used in my town’s festival. For some reason I recall growing up discovering that the Dutch had seen videos of our festival, of our Dutch Dancing, and heavily critiquing its inaccuracies and insults to their culture. So hearing the news of this workshop’s assistance surprised me that some of them accepted the festival enough to help. I had assumed my hometown did all the work itself (reflecting on this part, I almost feel embarrassed that I don’t remember more of the importance of my town’s heritage history. It’s not that surprising though. I never was good at history. I literally know more about Star Wars lore than Real World lore). It was a satisfactory introduction to the Netherlands but my opinion of the country reversed once we hit Amsterdam.

Much of the popularity of Amsterdam in my social circle back then and within research was its canals. Witnessing them in person, however, shattered that popularity. Maybe it was the season (late November) but the canals were dirty brown; I’d never want to swim in them let alone even look at them. I’ll grant the city its peaceful atmosphere with a traffic of automobiles replaced with a parade of bicyclists. I could vibe with that, but the canals were so unimpressive I nearly instantly decided I didn’t like the city. It didn’t help either that part of the tour program involved a sex show in the red lights district, and being a young American, not yet even an adult, disinterested in all that forced me to instead wander the district alone, uncomfortably yet afraid of leaving lest I forget the way back. The excursion ended on a slightly better note though, with visits to the Van Gogh Museum (where I discovered the proper, culturally Dutch, way to pronounce his name: kinda like Goff?) and the Anne Frank House. It was quite emotional, as you can imagine, that entire experience but unfortunately the details and memories of that experience have been lost to time.  

We only spent a day in Amsterdam thankfully, as we continued our journey into Germany. I had many friends who traveled to Berlin just a couple years previously, so I already knew much of what I wanted to see while there. We arrived at the hotel late at night. The rest of the group immediately drank at the Hofbrauhaus, while I walked alone down to the Brandenburg Gate, an hour’s journey, just to see it at nighttime, despite it being on the itinerary for the following day as well. I did afterwards meet up with the few remaining stragglers at the Hofbrauhaus, a local bar chain where I first tasted alcohol, a glass of White Zinfandel. 

Most of the time I spent my exploration in Berlin isolated from the others, once more hiking an hour to the Gate, then to the Alexanderplatz, to the Pergamonmuseum. My visit to the museum was short-lived, waiting in line for ~20 minutes to buy a ticket, then upon attempting to enter being informed I’d require a locker for my backpack, which in turn required waiting in line again to retrieve a key. Then after being denied entry again because I accidentally put my tickets in my bag now locked away, I freed my tickets from its former prison only to discover the locker key had a one time use. I departed the museum defeated, wasting valuable exploration time (this may or may not be a primary reason why I meticulously plan travels now). 

Briefly reuniting with the group in the afternoon, we visited Checkpoint Charlie, the intersection where Russian tanks and American tanks held a staring contest, and laughed at the obvious signifiers of the “American Side” vs the “Russian Side,” that being the immediate presence of a Starbucks and a McDonalds on the American Side. I also reenacted President Kennedy’s famous speech, “Ich bin ein Berliner” which I learned translates to “I am a donut.”

Berlin Wall.

A quick stop in Dresden bridged the gap between Berlin and Prague. I found the two hours there efficient for the emotional impact of the destination, a city bombed and rebuilt evident in the charcoaled lower halves of every building and pristine upper halves. Its history made Dresden seem a surprising place to host yet another Christmas Market for me, though this was only the second I had encountered and hadn’t yet realized such markets existed across the whole continent. I at least understood a desire to move beyond the tragedy. 

Throughout the years, people have asked me what my favorite country is and I never have a clear answer. I have categorized my favorite destinations to emphasize the reasons I like them instead of simply granting an all around title. Like how I nominated Kew Gardens as “Most Impressive Sight” (the winner of that award, by the way, would be from my recent Wales trip), another title awarded on this trip would be “Most Gorgeous City” and granted to Prague. 

Prague’s baroque architecture will always hold a place in my heart. Simply wandering around its oldest square, aptly named the Old Town Square, proved one of the most peaceful and beautiful journeys through a city imaginable (my second behind Switzerland’s Lucerne, which I’d explore later in this trip). Much of my time in Prague, actually, was simply walking through the city. The only notable points of interest I experienced were the Old Town Square, St. Vitus Cathedral and St. Charles’ Bridge, where an artist so skillfully reproduced a companion of mine’s caricature (I imagine it would be really helpful in the telling of this story to name some of these characters, but alas in my failure to truly befriend them I have inevitably forgotten most of their names. A difficult Facebook search could identify them, but I have also discovered a few of them have since changed their name or been removed from the site which further complicates the search). I do have a fond memory of this city though that transcends any other experience from this entire trip. Late at night, while our crew crawled from one pub to another, half a dozen strangers approached me, in the course of an hour, to share their opinions that I resembled a popular young boy wizard. The most intriguing feature of this whole experience, however, was the fact that this happened in the Czech Republic of all places, the one country in this 3-week trek across Europe whose dominant language is farthest from the English Language family than any other country in that trip. 

Prague’s Baroque architecture.

The night in Prague led me to Europe’s largest club, a 5 story party scene with each level focused on a different theme and music style. In theory, I found the idea relatively cool, but the party scene and I were not meant for each other. Besides, after one of the pubs in the crawl required the consumption of a shot of Absinthe as part of the entrance fee, I had had enough to drink for that day. So while the rest of the tour group danced their night away, I ventured to the hotel alone, again in a country whose alphabet was no longer similar enough to English for me to make educated guesses on translating signs for direction. I relied on the memory of instructions given by a kind stranger outside the club.

Prague concluded with a major emotional shift as we ventured to Dachau Concentration Camp. I’m not sure the words exist to accurately recreate that experience except by those who lived it. I mostly kept to myself, ingratiating as much knowledge and history as I could without the distractions of my companions. That likely enabled increased emotional impacts, though at the time of this writing 11 years later, I couldn’t tell you more about that history than the average person anymore. All I can remember is what I felt in that moment, in disbelief that such events could happen, pained by all those lost, and inspired to greet all with an open mind (for this genocide of Jews has not been the only tragedy to befall a race in our history. Everyone has a background, sometimes predating their lifespan, that has shaped them). 

Another tonal shift greeted me in Austria with a short visit to Innsbruck. Perhaps my first experience with a mountain town, staring down a symmetrical street as towering mountainous peaks overlook the background, Innsbruck created my desire to live in such a place which subconsciously led to my move to Salt Lake (although I’m not sure I would classify Salt Lake as enough of a mountain town for my preference). In Innsbruck we visited a Swarovski jewelry store where I purchased another family Christmas present for my younger sister. 

One “Get Lucky” listen later and we arrived in my “Favorite Country,” Italy. I spent a total of 6 days in Italy split between Venice, Rome, and Florence, in that order. The only thing I knew about Venice beforehand was from a brief video watched in some high school science class that mentioned its lifespan of 30 years due to flooding. At some later date I learned that to counter the flooding, the city regularly installed elevated walkways. I was slightly disappointed to not experience the city in that same state. That would have been a truly memorable experience. But I suppose I also wouldn’t have enjoyed the city I nominated for the “Best Sunset award” as much either, at least not at that moment. 

Exploring Venice proved a dangerous activity. With its infrastructure unable to support roads, I discovered every path was a walkway only wide enough to form one-way lanes. Its layout also challenged navigation. Our tour guide suggested not exploring the city without a map lest we get lost, but even with a map we risked wandering too far to retrace our steps. Ironically, the one time we did get lost in that city was while following our guide to a restaurant. Hidden in a maze of endlessly turning streets, all getting lost required was our guide taking one turn too fast. Thankfully, he registered reduced numbers and retreated from the maze to retrieve us. 

Sunsets in Venice.

I recently went back through this trip, scrolling through all of my documents referencing it, to map it out on Google Maps, pinpointing every destination and saving them to a “Visited” list. Unfortunately, I cannot recall nor could I successfully look up the name of this restaurant, but I will always remember the experience, its endless meal. I believe my tour company must have arranged a special dinner because I never ordered any food, I was simply given a plate. Luckily we were in Italy serving pasta otherwise my picky eating habits may have forced me to starve that night (nowadays I am more lax on cuisine when traveling but back then it was a serious concern). Unfortunately for another of my companions, she was lactose intolerant, a condition apparently not commonly heard of in Italy whose only substitute was salad (this same companion was also vegetarian which is similarly not common in German whose, again, only substitute was salad. Imagine eating only salad for a week). Upon finishing my plate, I was automatically given another, again without request, and out of fear of being rude, I consumed the entire next plate as well. And then was given another plate. 

My simple dinner turned into a 5-course meal (maybe 4? I don’t remember, it was 12 years ago). Eventually I gave up. I realized I surely couldn’t be perceived as rude if they relentlessly offered me more food, and they honestly probably even felt relieved that I finally surrendered. I mean, the bill’s cost didn’t increase for every plate they handed me, did it? For all I know they lost money on my meal, though unlikely. 

My fondest memory in Venice (in competition with a swarm of birds perching on my arms) was the Gondola ride through the city’s numerous, clear blue canals I found much more impressive than Amsterdam’s. It is a peaceful, quiet town (its infrastructure not being compatible with motor vehicles is a huge factor for this), and Gondola is the most efficient mode of transportation beyond walking in Venice. It is a very efficient method of exploring the city, easier to navigate without risk of getting lost, and you have a cool breeze accompanying you. Previously, I had only ventured around St. Mark’s Square, the home of Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica. For some reason I also have this memory of passing by a Gelato store in the square and having never heard of the term before. I thought it was Italian Ice Cream (which I guess it technically is, the word translated as “frozen” and used in place of all types of ice cream. But it’s clearly also unique from traditional American ice cream, and must have blown up in popularity sometime after this trip because I see it everywhere now.) The Gondola ride also revealed the route to my second favorite bridge on the trip, the famous Rialto, which allowed me to navigate the streets to the bridge on foot once stepping off the boat. 

Venice also saw the completion of another dare by the only Asian (Australian) in our group, who as my closest friend on that trip is also one of the few names I can remember. As a kind of joke reference to the fact that you can almost always find a group of Asian tourists no matter where you travel, Kieran’s task was to integrate with one such group, joining them for a brief journey around St. Mark’s Square. 

Succeeding Venice was my highest wish listed destination going into this trip, Rome. I have always had a fondness for Ancient Mythology, both Greek and Roman, and the stories they told. Experiencing the capital of the Roman Empire, from the ruins of the Forum and the Coliseum to the only surviving building from the Empire, the Pantheon, Rome exceeded expectations (as well frankly the entirety of Italy).

Rome hosted several more highlights for me, including the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. But the biggest highlight isn’t even a POI, it’s the scarfing down of a pizza twice the size of one’s face as my lunch group rushed to reunite with the rest before their departure to the next destination. I didn’t participate in the scarfing fortunately, simply an entertained spectator; that task was left to the same companion caricatured on the bridge in Prague (hang on, his name was Mitchell! A tall blonde and one of the few from the western coast of Australia, near Perth. His caricature was an uncanny accurate resemblance. Now that I think about it, I actually have a sweater imprinted with everyone’s name. Hang on while I confirm this. Yes, it’s Mitchell). I did have a drink I needed to chug more quickly than I am capable, a task I am not skilled at. I do not recall the drink, likely some kind of wine since I spent much time sampling alcoholic drinks throughout this trip as an underaged American. But it could have been anything; I was not even capable of chugging water for long, so I can’t gauge the difficulty properly. It was here in Rome where I made the decision to attend University and for what degree to pursue: Classics to write stories similar to all the mythology I loved (I did complete a draft of a novel accomplishing this, but my expertise in that medium is questionable and may translate that instead to screen format). 

Taking a quick break from Italy, we drove into the Vatican. I obviously toured the Sistine Chapel but for whatever reason, even immediately after leaving the Chapel, I do not recall spotting the famous Michelangelo painting on the Chapel’s ceiling, of the two index fingers split by a small gap, referencing the Creation of Adam. I am fully confident I did see it but the Sistine’s ceiling is completely covered in art depicting nine different scenes from Genesis all blended together that the likely story is I simply never processed seeing the iconic artwork, too distracted by the beauty of the interior. I recall photography prohibited in the room so another factor could have been that because I didn’t have the capacity to immortalize that memory through photography, I had to fully immerse myself in the room to immortalize it mentally (which clearly worked at least long enough to talk about it 12 years later). 

Florence followed the Vatican. I think the most interesting snippet from this portion of the trip is that I felt like I had already been there. I had no use for maps, for the city’s layout was so accurately recreated in a video game (Assassin’s Creed) I spent dozens of hours exploring that I already could navigate its streets before even arrival. In fact, I turned into a guide, escorting companions to the iconic Ponte Vecchio that spans the Arno River and is the only bridge in Florence that survived World War II. I further guided companions to the Santa Croce Basilica.

Ponte Vecchio.

Florence will always be nostalgic to me for another reason, however, for it was there I celebrated my 20th birthday and there I attempted my trip dare. To be honest, I can’t recall if I needed to complete it all in one go or if my dare-giver Kelsey meant for me to do it gradually throughout the trip, so it’s possible I chose to drink 5 shots of vodka in not just one night but within 40 seconds. It’s not like I was super eager to get drunk. I had spent the past couple weeks at this point watching my companions hop onto the back of moving fire trucks, had witnessed a kiss between individuals in relationships back home and forget about it the next morning, had observed a grown man lay on his back while others drank out of shot glasses resting on his chest. There was no part of this environment appealing to me, and that remains true today. It’s definitely not the primary reason I wanted to go to Europe in the first place, despite what my parents might think. This was and will always be the only time I’ll get drunk in my life. 

I could have refused the dare and let Kelsey make a new one for me. But I wasn’t just traveling around the world, I wanted to experience it. As the saying goes, “when in Rome.” I suppose I also justified my actions by considering any possible usefulness of getting blackout drunk, that if I had experienced it myself I could more effectively help out future friends who find themselves in the same situation. I could also maybe use the experience to more efficiently write future characters and stories. I believe that was the biggest reason I accepted the dare: my life up until that point, in my opinion, lacked experiences. I wanted to change that. It’s hard to write strong stories if you don’t have experiences to back them up. Maybe it wasn’t a necessary experience, and maybe if I hadn’t been traveling with the others for 2 weeks by this point I would have considered otherwise, but I was surrounded by 4 dozen people I could subconsciously trust with my safety. And rightfully so, for they protected me. 

I remember walking around the club for maybe 10 minutes before passing out, briefly regaining consciousness to register being assisted in a cab, then waking up the next morning covered in puke residue. When I regrouped with the others for breakfast, they cleared me in on the night’s events after my passing out, that moments after the bouncer cleaned up a mess off a sofa, I resurrected that mess, on that same sofa (a sofa which, by the way, was on a second floor I didn’t even know existed). It was an odd experience, losing memory, the only proof it ever existed from secondhand stories. I still remember most of my birthday though: the aforementioned self-guided adventures through Florence, a glamorous meal in a grand room accompanied by 6 glasses of wine and a glass of champagne as a prep for the night’s main event. There is a video recording of me somewhere documenting my dare, a video which to this day I have not shown anyone not on that trip or even seen myself for probably 7 years. My parents have said I talk about this event and hold onto its memory as if I am proud of it and I don’t think that could be farther from the truth. I think when I told them it, I was mostly just excited to have a story to share at all. I find it most likely that my actions were influenced by both the pursuit of experience and my own personal curiosity. I think it’s kind of interesting to say that when I went to Pisa the next day, my hungover state saw a standing tower of Pisa.

My next destination brought with it a return to the mountains, the Swiss Alps. We set up a home base in the town of Lucerne, a gorgeous lakeside village in the heart of the Alps. Most of my tour group indulged in iconic Swiss Fondue, but unfortunately for me, I sort of categorized Fondue with English Breakfast, and thus neglected to experience it. It’s not quite the same situation – I was fully aware they were tasting it so it’s not that I simply forgot about it – but at the time I wasn’t as open to prioritizing experiencing cultural cuisine. If I were ever to return to Switzerland (looking at you Interlaken) Fondue would for sure be on the itinerary, but I don’t regret not trying it back then. This is probably the first time I’ve even thought about this in the decade since. Switzerland is home, however, to another quite major regret. 

The day we spent in Switzerland started with a venture up the peaks. The cable car to the top took 30 minutes; Kieran and I claimed a car for ourselves. Outside of the otherworldly scenic views, and endless display of scattered peaks and an aerial of the city below, the only notable events of the ride up was the spotting of a small church about halfway up, with no clear road leading to it. I was more curious why a church would be so remote in location that it’d defeat the purpose of its existence. I imagined it abandoned though, perhaps its functionality resting in history. 

Beforehand, the tour guide reminded us of the elevation of the peak and the potentially colder environment. When we reached the top however, I found the opposite to be true. I had prepared for the cold with 4 layers of clothing and removed 3 of those layers once stepping onto the peak, wandering Mt. Pilatus in a t-shirt. Hurdling around a stack of clothes may have not made for the most pleasant experience, but nor is it my deepest regret. 

View from Mt. Pilatus

A goal of this trip was to befriend these international companions so that when I eventually inevitably visited Australia (at the time I was also considering studying abroad there but this visit has yet to happen), I’d have friends to show me around. There were a few people up to this point that I would have considered a friend, Kieran among them, and another that assisted me during my drunken escapade, Dan. And I seized every chance I got to hold onto these friendships. Unfortunately, the Alps had a different plan in store for me. 

I always imagined I’d take these events to my grave, and thus I feel compelled to alter some of the truth, despite the desire to recreate the story as accurately as possible. As I wandered Mt. Pilatus, gazing upon the mountainous landscape, the frozen alpine lakes and the rather impressive snowman creations from individuals who had never seen snow before, many ladies of the tour group collectively performed their trip dare. Distracted by the divine beauty of the Alps, I explored past a small windmill behind which these ladies hid and witnessed the backside of their topless bodies, thus shattering any hope I had of befriending them. The regret of this event might seem misplaced, but the accidental nature of this event is not fully accurate. I was aware of the dare beforehand, I should have anticipated it, and while the distractions leading up to it were still true to justify my initial presence there, the shock of the event and the almost immediate accusatory glares from the dare participants despite my having just arrived imprisoned me there longer than I should have been. Therein is the regret, my reaction. My presence there could have been explained to salvage the friendships, but my reaction not so much. And though not everyone in the group was around to witness the events, by the time we returned to the bus at the mountain’s base, its story had spread. 

We had the option to sledge down the mountain, a 45 minute journey of zigging and zagging down its slopes, but due to my diminished mood from the transpired events on the peak, I opted for the same return journey as my arriving journey, the cable car. As a causation, I consider this an extension of my regret. The opportunity to sledge down a 7000’ slope is far and few between, and one I’ll unlikely ever have again. I should have seized it instead of repeating the scenic journey down, wallowing in shock and worry for the dynamics during the rest of the trip (which was only a day and a half). 

There is something positive to be said in the aftermath however. When we returned to the city, I joined a subgroup that managed to not get involved with the drama. We trekked across the Chapel Bridge, Europe’s oldest roofed footbridge connecting the halves of Lucerne split by the Reuss River and displayed pictorial panels of Swiss history. It’s honestly my favorite memory of the entire trip, this simple walk through town on the most breathtaking bridge. But I cherish that memory also for the content of the discussion that group had whilst exploring. 

I don’t recall how it started, nor who brought the topic up, but at some point someone mentioned they suspected my dampened mood, that my aura had transformed. I found this a special moment for two reasons: recognizing my poor moods was not a common trait among my friends back home, or if they did recognize it, rarely said anything. The fact that these people who at this point had only known me for 17 days were able to recognize something wrong with me greatly impressed me. More importantly, it brought me hope that I hadn’t completely failed my goal. If Rhiannon and Logan, who both had at least heard of what happened on the peak, still considered me enough of a friend to comfort me at a low point, that was worth holding on to. And whenever I do decide to fly to Australia, they will likely be the first people I reach out to. 

The final destination of our trip (not to be confused with the horror franchise) was the city of love, Paris. Paris felt like a half a week’s excursion jam packed into a single day. The night of our arrival featured a lift to the top of the Eiffel Tower, where I purchased my final Christmas gift. Though I don’t remember the gift itself, I recall the gift being for my mother. I found humor in spotting a soccer field while gazing down into the city, reminded of the reason I tolerated exploring only the major cities of Western Europe (instead of the natural environments I would have preferred) while not particularly caring for the cities of America. The key difference was that they didn’t feel big. Perhaps caused by its vast history, Western Europe’s cities aren’t filled with tall skyscrapers. There are the odd towering buildings like the Eiffel and the London Eye, but for the most part the continent’s ancient history meant their cities maintained their traditional aesthetics, developed long before the time of skyscrapers. London, Amsterdam, Berlin, Prague, Innsbruck, Rome, Florence, Lucerne, they all reminded me environmentally of my hometown and other small American towns I have been acquainted with. They were big cities only in terms of square feet, but their atmospheres argued differently. And even then, I found myself walking to most places in every city I visited. I find it interesting actually, that the only 2 cities in Europe I rode local public transportation in were London and Paris, the first and last cities of my trip. Even more interesting was the surprising aid from a French local (contradicting all the stereotypes about them not being friendly to outsiders) when their subway system accepted only credit cards with chips, which was apparently a system the US had not yet implemented, and he purchased my ticket for me. 

The day in Paris included a visit to the famous Louvre. Immediately impressed by its main entrance under the iconic pyramid, the Louvre’s most notable feature, to me, was not its grand collection of the most famous artworks in history. Don’t get me wrong, seeing the Mona Lisa in person is a special moment despite its high security protections that permitted guests from walking within 20 feet of it. But it was also expected. The memory I carry with me the most is wandering its royal halls like a peasant unworthy of attendance, learning that to fully experience everything the Louvre offers could take 6-9 months. Yet still its commissioner found its size lacking for his taste and relocated his palace instead to Southern France, which was the Louvre’s initial purpose: to serve as a palace.

Entrance to the Louvre.

After the Louvre, Kieran and I found a quick bite where I once again let picky eating habits deter me from attempting escargot like my companion. As the last day of the tour, I think I was also just in a mix of emotions, wanting to guarantee maximum enjoyment, so I played it safe with familiar cuisine (though I couldn’t tell you the exact meal). We wandered the streets and parks of Paris, down the Champs-Elysee to the Arc De Triomphe. That reminds me, when we first arrived in Paris, as the guide was informing us of the 14 lanes that lead into the only 12 lane wide roundabout surrounding the Arc, the driver charged into the roundabout like a racehorse freed from its paddock: without hesitation and full steam ahead. It’s a miracle we didn’t collide. 

We retraced our steps back down the Champs-Elysee toward the Louvre, where we crossed the Pont De Arts, or Love Lock Bridge. I suppose it was a cool experience in the moment, witnessing the endless collection of love sealed away for eternity on the River Seine. But even then I questioned the favorability. The locks diminished the inspiring views the Seine offered and overwhelmed the already high-trafficked bridge with even more tourists, as a connector of the Louvre and Notre Dame, that I just imagined the locals’ annoyance with the situation. Sure enough, it turns out it wasn’t for eternity. A couple years after this trip I read an article claiming the Parisian Government shut the operation down due to structural damage, the locks of love replaced with glass panels. I do appreciate having witnessed the bridge before its retirement because now it serves as a reminder of life’s fleeting nature. Not everything endures forever. Cherish the special moments, and seize every opportunity because there may never be another one. I suppose I thought similarly from visiting Notre Dame pre-fire, though the lesson learned there would be slightly different thanks to its efficient restoration. 

Pont De Artes.

The tour ended with a bang, though good or bad I’ll let you decide for yourself, as we attended a show at the infamous Moulin Rouge. Naturally, comparisons between living the experience and simply watching the experience on film transpired. The two are vastly different. The film amplifies the Moulin Rouge’s cabaret environment to a more chaotic level for my tastes, that movie influencing my opinion before even entry. The real place was thankfully more tame, essentially a dinner theater show performed by women in various styles of colorful attire with various masterful acts. Some of my expectations going in (again influenced by the movie) were proven justified, that the performers exposed more skin than I was used to in my upbringing. I thus had several reasons to conclude my 23-day journey on a different note. I think ultimately accepting attendance was partially due to the fact that I had skipped the show in the Red Lights District of Amsterdam and that up until to this point I was still relatively lacking in a cultural experience (as opposed to almost exclusively sightseeing so far). And yeah, I found the show uncomfortable at times but entertaining at others. It was an efficient conclusion. Upon reflection, it’s interesting that my EuroTrip essentially began and ended with a similar activity. “Full Circle” has always been a captivating storytelling technique for me and to experience its use firsthand in real life was a wonderful gift. 

The Moulin Rouge.

I will forever correlate that trip and “Get Lucky” together. I almost never think about one without also the other. It became more than just tradition for those few weeks. It became that trip’s theme, its lyrics summarizing the experiences and its impact as a metaphor on my life. 

It’s the Legend of the Phoenix, all ends with beginnings. This opening directly references the Phoenix myth, the avian that dies and is reborn every 1000 years. Similarly to the Phoenix, that trip ignited a new life path for me, a rebirth. It inspired my pursuit of further education after a two year gap since high school, and though I may have still not known which degree to choose at the time, I did at least know what I wanted to do with my life: to travel the world. And by the time this story was written 12 years later, despite an unused degree, I had successfully managed to visit 14 countries and 31 states. 

What keeps the planet spinning. The force from the beginning. I often reflect on this trip as it shaped who I am today. It gave me a reason to keep spinning, constantly traveling and planning two or three trips in advance. The memory of this journey, my first taste of the bigger world, has become my life’s greatest motivator. I’d argue it is even more than a catalyst. It’s my entire being. 

We’ve come too far to give up who we are. No matter how important one aspect of life may seem, traveling will always remain top priority. I have fears that prioritizing travel so deeply will forbid me from pursuing many long term commitments that’d damage my free time, like starting a family, but I believe that sacrifice will be worth the reward. I have traveled too much to want to give that up for anything. It is my life’s purpose. 

So let’s raise the bar and our cups to the stars. Our drive to Berlin landed on an American Holiday, Thanksgiving. As the only American on the trip, I felt obligated to share a tradition with my companions, borrowing my trip guide’s microphone to give thanks to all those I traveled with for making this opportunity possible. And that’s really the heart of this whole journey and tale: a thank you note, a celebration of my rebirth. I fully believe that I needed to not only travel Western Europe, but to do so with those people, at that time, even if I would have preferred to travel solo, beyond more than the major cities, and only compromised for the sake of my parents. 

Now obviously the true meaning of these lyrics are questionable but I have altered them into my own personal translation. She’s up all night ‘til the sun, I’m up all night to get some, She’s up all night for good fun, I’m up all night to Get Lucky. I identify with a different metaphor than the song’s intended, instead considering night and sun as a representation of Mother Nature’s endless cycles. I would, and have, sacrificed slumber in pursuit of exploration, to  “stay up all night” and “get some” opportunities and experiences. To “Get Lucky.”  To this day that has been my philosophy while planning trips, leaving room for the twilight and midnight hours.

My Western European adventures were made possible by a two year gap between high school and college, taken out of fear of not having money or time post graduation. But it turned out to be such a phenomenal time that motivated me to prioritize traveling for the rest of my life, sacrificing anything unnecessary and reserving everything I could spare on a limited wage. Now I consider my riches a higher class than most, riches not of monetary value but of reminiscent and experiential, a more valuable form of wealth in my opinion. And this trip is where that all started. I owe my entire life to it and to the company that hosted it. To Contiki.

The Meteoric Experience

I used to love driving long distances. Road trips were almost a necessity growing up in Michigan where the closest thing worth visiting was half a dozen hours away. Maybe an older age or road trips in several foreign countries has shifted my perspective, or maybe Nevada is simply the bane of my existence (seriously that State’s only benefit is Vegas and I don’t even gamble). The 12 hour drive Memorial Day weekend from Salt Lake to Southern Oregon was not only one of the longest treks I have attempted but also the most gruesomely boring drive through the most hellish landscapes in perhaps the entire country. Seriously, I imagine my drive similarly to how Frodo felt crossing the Marshes of the Dead, disturbed by the desolate and unwelcome nature of the land. I have no idea how the Skywalkers tolerated growing up on a desert planet with literally endless sand plains beyond the borders of major cities.  At least my drives in Wales and Costa Rica had something to see. Nevada is a barren wasteland. The mere 4 hours of sleep the night before due to my movie premiere didn’t help, to be fair, nor only stopping for gas the entire trip.

This will be a unique story in the sense some of it will be written as it is experienced. I am currently waiting at the Crater Lake Lodge to meet family, the purpose of my visit to this bucket list state, while detailing the first half of my ventures. It’s my first solo trip in a while and is a bit of a last minute plan, an invitation texted only a month before. It’s also the least prepared and planned trip I have ever been on. I have no idea where I am sleeping tonight or the night after, a rare occurrence I find rather refreshing. It came at the tail end of planning a group trip for a dozen friends to the Tetons that embarks in a few weeks, so unfortunately my focus has been on that. But I also partially decided to consider what so many of my friends have recommended before, and let the adventure guide me. Don’t meticulously plan out every detail. So I did. Unfortunately, I have yet to reap any of that strategy’s benefits. 

Crater Lake was always on the docket, so my preparations began around the fact that I’d be meeting family Saturday evening. Initially I considered a visit to Bend for Smith Rock, a destination I have long known about from the rock climbing community. Adding an extra 2 hour drive from Crater to Bend, however, seemed a task rather avoided. Through my minimal research I discovered Crater Lake about halfway down the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway, the “Highway of Waterfalls” and an appealing alternative itinerary. 

My introduction to the Highway, the Rogue Gorge Viewpoint.

The guides I briefly skimmed recommended starting the Byway from Northern Roseburg but its proximity to Salt Lake led me toward Southern Medford. I figured I’d visit the noted stops along the way to Crater and reduce any unnecessary backtracking. The guides listed estimated times spent at each destination, so I believed I’d have enough to work with to keep me occupied until Crater. Unfortunately I found the opposite true. All the waterfalls that made the Byway famous, I found out the hard way, cascade in the northern sections of the Byway, and that the few notable stops along the south are quick half-mile hikes usually to a raging river. I don’t intend to downplay the Rogue River. What I saw of it was gorgeous, but what I saw of it also only took not even a couple hours total to explore, despite the guides saying the stops should be 60 minutes each. I was meant to have a whole day before my Crater Lake meeting. I found a boulder field on the route for a brief rock climbing session, but its heavily undeveloped and mossy rocks also lacked content to keep me occupied for long. 

The drive along the highway through the Umpqua National Forest.

Even the drive itself I found subpar to expectations. It wasn’t until around a town called Shady Cove did the road transition into a scenic environment of forestry, 22 miles into the drive if you begin where Google Maps identifies as the start of the Byway in a town called Gold Hill. The underperforming drive literally inspired me to research the qualifications for a Scenic Byway, which outlined that it’s not just about the road but also the history, archaeology, culture, recreation, and natural qualities of the area. I guess that definition efficiently supports the reasoning behind this Byway’s naming, even if it lacked in the actual “scenic” department in my opinion. Perhaps calling an early day was for the best after the drive I had endured. The extra rest might grant me a morale boost.

But then I hit Crater Lake. My intention wasn’t to arrive until a couple hours before the meeting, but the lack of activities in the lower half of the Byway lured me there 8 hours earlier. Maybe I am not used to exploring mountains yet, but I grossly underestimated the snowfall waiting for me, which means I also underestimated the available excursions the Park offered; I arrived to find snow piled up higher than some of its buildings. I was already under the impression that Crater’s only worthwhile hike was the trail to the lake itself, a trail that I knew would be closing down after the season for a couple years of renovations, and one of the primary reasons I wanted to go. When I first heard that news, I reached out to a relative, my beta reader, who has lived in Oregon for the past several decades, and she informed me she was already planning a trip there over Memorial Day, inviting me to join. To discover that even that was closed now for heavy snow remaining on the trail made me briefly question the worthiness of my trip. The views of the Lake from the rim were angelic when I could see beyond the towering walls of snow, but not being able to witness for myself the purity of its waters, to me, defeated half the purpose of visiting.  In the end, I came ultimately not for the park but for the family, distant relatives I only see once every few years.

Crater Lake’s Wizard Island.

These complications caused by lack of preparation forced me to pursue correcting a personal flaw, talking to people. To clarify, I often struggle with conversing with even my closest friends. In any group setting, unless the topics Star Wars, Ninja, Hawaiian shirts, Doctor Who or traveling are mentioned, (or I am directly addressed) I become a silent listener. In the circumstances I have joined other random conversations, I have rarely been the igniter. This trip forced me to seek out strangers, potential locals or fellow tourists that have thoroughly planned their vacation, for suggestions to fill out my weekend. 

Now, there was no way I was going to wait around Crater Lake all day so I returned to waterfall highway and progressed further than initially scheduled, one hour north of Crater Lake to Diamond Lake per suggestion from one of the aforementioned locals. I was going to backtrack a significantly longer distance than I would have liked to, especially considering the hiked up prices for fuel in Diamond Lake. To make matters worse snowfall prevented me once more from maximizing my experience of the lake, the loop around closed off. The Lake’s only offering was a boat launch I was able to quickly dip my feet into. 

The longer north I drove the further I’d have to retrace my steps, so I made my way back to Crater Lake. I found a waterfall along the way hidden in a maze of forest service roads allowing for one more quick detour that’d delay my return to the Park slightly longer. It was a majestic view overqualified for a half mile hike, albeit short-lived. With naught else on the road, I returned to Crater Lake Lodge with 2 hours to spare, spending that time writing this story. I also made a quick trip to the visitor center for the obligatory National Parks passport stamp and Annual Pass (since my card didn’t work at the entry booth and I wanted to still support the park). While in the visitor center, I heavily considered awakening the eternally slumbering beast within me to aggressively confront an impatient tourist shouting complaints that the ONLY employee in the building was taking too long assisting and providing information to those before her, to remind her of the struggles our Parks system and the tension the employees endure daily.  

I know my beta reader will be disappointed by my, well, disappointment at my introduction to the state she has called home for the past several decades. I also know Oregon is famous for a reason. I have seen arguments from its top contributors to this fame. I expect this second half to significantly shift my opinion of the state. I just simply can’t imagine 15 cascading waterfalls in under 100 miles or the rumored Hot Springs recommended by the front desk at the Crater Lake Lodge underrepresenting the beauty of the “Beaver State.” I expect the family dinner to be a much needed catch up, one of the highlights of the weekend. But I guess I’ll just have to wait and see.

———-

The dinner plan was to meet with 2 aunts, first cousins once removed, and one of their best friends, a former marine biologist employee of the Park. When the time to meet arrived, I discovered I had already ‘met’ this fourth guest, once in the Park’s video presentation on the history of the Lake, though his 30 year old resemblance in the video made it impossible to recognize him. In fact, I met him again, unknowingly, in the lobby of the lodge while writing the first half of this story. I knew he would be present before venturing to the Park, and had a couple questions prepared for him, interested in a Park employee’s perspective. But I would not address those questions until much later. I hadn’t seen my family in some time after all. 

My presence was meant as a half surprise, a successful attempt. One of my aunts had no idea I’d be there, and likely didn’t recognize me at first while donned in my fancy floral-themed suit inspired by my daily Hawaiian shirt wardrobe. As predicted, the dinner was a much needed catch up. I couldn’t remember the exact timeline, but I didn’t even know one of her children was dating let alone now married, and the last time I saw her was at the wedding of another of her children, so it’s been a solid near decade; we both had a lot to share. 

She knew I traveled a lot, following my adventures via social media posts, so the dinner conversations naturally shifted toward that topic several times. I had also shared a few correspondence with the other aunt directly, detailing my travels beyond the capabilities of the character-limited posts, in the form of this story you are reading now. She is my beta reader. If it isn’t obvious yet, I love talking about travel. I love hearing about travel. This wealth of experiences surpasses any monetary value. I would have spent that entire dinner talking about any of the 14 countries I have experienced, or listening to any of the dozen of my aunt’s own travel stories. 

Perhaps that is why the biggest highlight of this dinner were the tales from the former Park Employee, the moments I would remember the best. Hearing of his adventures skiing off the top of the Lodge, skiing in every month of the year at the Lake, diving to the bottom of the deepest lake in the states, some people might wish they lived such a life as he has. I consider my imagination so vast and creative that I can insert myself into those adventures, and I can thus in a way feel those experiences as he told them. Hearing travel stories are some of the most immersive experiences I can enjoy. They are also inspirational motivators. In fact, it’s partially for this same reason I decided to embark on this travel writing journey: friends who have read my social media posts have reported their newfound inspiration to travel the world as I have. Hearing travel stories inspires me to travel more, telling travel stories in turn inspires others, and this is a cycle I will perpetuate for as long as I am able. 

I impressed the retired park employee with my memory of the informational video, restating facts to him as the questions arose, like the record-breaking 130 foot visibility and the 1900 ft depth (although my estimates for this latter fact were slightly mixed up by the former, and I thus initially answered with a 1300 ft depth). Unfortunately, when I addressed my questions to him about the state of the park post Trump layoffs, he lacked any insider information. He still had friends in the park, and he is even still active with the training of new recruits, but the layoffs, as a retiree, had no effect on him. I discussed my experiences and differences on how foreign national parks are handled, seeking a way for the states to learn from those systems, but that topic ended quickly as well. That was okay, I wasn’t expecting much anyway. 

Just as thrilling as the discussions proved, I’ll review the cuisine similarly. I am generally a picky eater, and while at home I often repeat weekly meals. While on vacation however, I not only try to always eat out at least once to taste local food, but I pick something unlike any of my regular eats. I played it safe with my main entree, choosing a pork dish, however I let the preferences of my companions influence the appetizers and desserts. As such, I experienced for the first time the surprisingly smooth and piquant taste of Mussels. I can consider this meal a rectifier for my failure to brave escargot whilst visiting Paris. 

The dinner discussions extended beyond the table as we strolled through the Park, talking about family, the future, and my life since moving to Utah. I would be seeing both of those aunts later in the summer, allowing time for more meaty talks, but I heard what I needed to that weekend. Honestly, all that mattered to me in that moment was sharing that time with them, no matter what discussions we shared. My move to Utah hasn’t been the friendliest experience, so just seeking familiarity and comfort of family, if only for a few hours, was enough to justify a 12 hour road trip. And despite its rather lackluster start, this trip and my reception of this reputable state shifted, likely to the delight of my beta reader, after this reunion.

Mt. Thielsen on the way to Diamond Lake.

I woke up the following day in a nearby Sno-Park, lots Oregon uses to provide parking during the winter season for recreational areas, though still freely available for use the rest of the year.  It’s a unique experience, waking up to Mt. Thielsen symmetrically towering over the road as one approaches Diamond Lake, its dawnlit peaks a moodsetter for the rest of the day. Without access to data and google maps, at the time I couldn’t locate the existence of several falls between Crater and Diamond Lakes, so I drove first to the recommended Lemolo Lake. The drive led me to a KOA campground that forbid approaching the lake without checking into the campground, which I obviously had no reservation for, so wasting that drive, I returned to the Rogue-Umpqua. Following signs I had found along the highway, and a generic guide I quickly glimpsed online before my trip, the first falls I found was Clearwater. Although I hadn’t realized it yet, I discovered a very unfortunate truth at this introductory representative of Oregon’s waterfall highway, that the hikes to and from their parking lots were quick and smooth, and the amount of time spent there was significantly shorter than the 60 minutes recommended on the guide. For many of the waterfalls, I do wish I had taken advantage of their peaceful atmospheres longer, especially given my solitude. I wish I hadn’t just rushed through them, spending only slightly more time than it took to snap a few post-worthy photos. I knew there were many stops to make and wanting to experience all the falls without knowing the time constraints of each of their approaches meant rushing through a few. Not only that, I wanted to soak in the Hot Springs before the crowds. 

White Horse Falls.

Less than a mile down the road from Clearwater Falls was White Horse. This rather short waterfall offered a close approach and enhanced views by almost symmetrically fallen lumber. These first two dwarf falls may not bear the suitable qualities necessary for a trip highlight classification but they proved satisfactory warm up acts to the headliner.

The Rogue-Umpqua Highway is home to the third tallest Falls in the State of Oregon, Watson Falls. Nature’s cries bawl down 272 feet of endless tears in this towering beauty, pounding aggressively into the pools below and granting an illusion of rain amid a sunny day. The impact soaks any approaching visitor before they even reach its base, challenging photographers with damp lenses but waking up overnight boondockers testing new air mattresses that seemed to randomly deflate and interrupt their slumber (this trip served as a trial run for my vehicle’s ability to support potential long-term living, and clearly revealed some needed adjustments). Watson Falls is the first time I met another adventurer that day, allowing for picture-taking trades; she snapped a few on my own, I snapped a few on hers. I brought a tri-pod, but its inflexible legs limited the positions and angles I could take pictures of myself, without assistance, and without the entire contraption tipping over. The presence of this second visitor thus proved a savior. Between all the falls I visited that day, I spent the most time here. On my way out, I found an alternative path leading higher up the cliff for a dryer viewpoint of the falls, allowing for a peaceful Falls-gazing experience without taking collateral damage. 

The Majestic Watson Falls.

Succeeding Watson Falls was one of the few researched destinations for this trip’s minimal planning, the Umpqua Hot Springs. The hot springs are tucked away deep in a National Forest, 4 miles from the main road. Unfortunately signs directed and alerted drivers of its existence so its isolation did not reduce crowds. This highlight started rough; arriving at the parking lot I found countless vehicles parked along the main road, beyond the designated parking lot, despite signs forbidding parking there. I was able to claim official parking in the lot, thankfully. However, there was a charged fee for Day Use. My only seemingly dictated method of payment though was via an mobile app that I would have neither been able to download nor even use in the signalless national forest. I scouted the windshields of other vehicles and counted how many also did not have a pass, leaving the chance of a parking ticket in Fate’s hands like another couple just arriving. 

Hiking a couple miles from the parking lot to the springs offered a chance to dry off slightly after Watson’s assault, to refresh in the early morning hours. I imagine the still damp clothing and skin eased the hike, so categorizing the difficulty of the hike would not be very accurate from me. I don’t recall any tenuous inclines or unfenced clifflines. I will say, however, that I passed people of all backgrounds both during the hike and at the springs, kids and adults alike. So it’s safe to conclude that the hike is family-friendly. 

Arriving at the springs offered several pools to choose from. Desiring to relax alone for a bit first, I reduced those options down to one. Although that remaining spring was the most picturesque, located at the lowest edge of the cliff, its beauty proved a double edged sword: it was also the coldest spring of the bunch. 

The Umpqua Hot Springs.

The crowds increased rapidly. It quickly became near impossible to claim an entire pool for myself now, so I returned to higher elevation and warmer pools, regrouping with the couple I had greeted in the parking lot. I discovered another surprise when entering the pool: the adventurer I met on the Watson Falls trail now rested in the same pool as me, an Asian woman not much older than me. 

Our conversations mostly included hiking adventures, how one witnessed the near tragedy of a fellow hiker unprepared for the challenging conditions of Mt. Saint Helen’s, her water depleted and the threat of exhaustion and dehydration creeping ever closer. I talked about the many glamorous trails of the Utah Desert too popularized in the past years and now requiring permits, which lead to talks of the infamous Havasu Falls in the Grand Canyon, a hike so popular and isolated that only a few hundred in the world can venture it a year. Some Portlanders talked about their adventures up Mt. Rainier, compelling stories that made me wish my visit to Seattle hadn’t resulted in only weather that completely concealed the mountainous giant. As stated before, participating in conversation is a weakness I’m working on and my strength is in listening. An unfamiliar sight, however, occasionally distracted me from even listening efficiently. 

Several sources warned me ahead of time of Oregon’s lax policies on clothing-optional attire in public spaces. When I arrived at the hot springs, some part of me was relieved to find everyone else appropriately clothed. Some other part of me, however, was disappointed to find no one taking advantage of those policies. Visiting a nudist beach isn’t necessarily something I have actively avoided, it’s just never been something I have particularly cared to experience. When I heard about the possibility of a nudist encounter, I realized I couldn’t imagine how I’d react in such a situation, and answering that question is another thing that intrigued me about the hot springs. While the conversation about hiking trails lingered on, I spotted an elderly gentleman relieved of all but a shirt, roaming the pools. I surprisingly found myself mostly unaffected by the sight. Any initial discomfort came from the fact that I never saw him enter a pool and believed he had walked out there naked for no other reason than just for the sake of it. He apparently had dipped into a pool briefly, according to those I conversed with, and thus I found myself otherwise unbothered by his presence. No one else complained, at least publicly, and I think looking back on it now, it’s because I was warned ahead of time about the possibility of such a sighting (and thus mentally prepared) that I also had accepted the sighting indifferently. 

The Framework of Toketee Falls.

Eventually the fear of a parking ticket ended my peaceful rest at the springs. I hurried back to the car, eager to get back on the road. I recalled spotting another waterfall at the base of the road leading to the springs and made another pit stop at Toketee Falls. There I reunited once more with the Asian woman but this time other familiar faces from the springs accompanied me. Toketee Falls is rumored to be arguably more popular than the majestic Watson Falls, perhaps a result of its shorter approach, but my vote went to the latter. That’s not to say Toketee was a disappointment. It possesses its own qualities worthy of a visitation, hosting a viewpoint that frames the Falls for you, the branches of nearby trees circling the Falls like the border of a picture frame. Realizing here that the Asian woman and I had the same plans, we walked together to and from the Falls, essentially becoming temporary best friends. We progressed through the rest of the Rogue-Umpqua Highway together. 

Our next meeting was at Falls Creek Falls, a picturesque beauty offering a peaceful atmosphere unlike many of the falls witnessed previously. At its base was a small landing hosting a preinstalled bench crafted from logs, allowing perfect opportunities for a photo op style I have adopted throughout many of my travels: a self-portrait facing away from the camera, staring off into the distance. The Asian woman arrived as I prepared to leave, and we both agreed it’s among the best of the highway. Her late arrival revealed a Falls I had somehow skipped, but that she assured me was not at all impressive anyway. We walked back to the cars together, essentially becoming best friends, deciding to discuss more personal topics. 

Interested in travel stories and foreign cultures, I asked her for suggestions on her motherland and her Chinese heritage. She in turn strongly advised me to put China as far down the bucket list as possible. As a dual citizen, she still has family in China, and every time she visits she has to prove her citizenship. Apparently, in China, you have to replace every mobile app with China-approved apps, meaning I wouldn’t have access to financial institutions from the States and I wouldn’t be able to convert currency unless I was a member of a local bank, memberships that required proof you were Chinese. It’s a country unfriendly to tourists, requiring several challenging work arounds to bypass their strict policies. Although I never got her name, the conversations I shared with her were some of the highlights of my trip (if you somehow miraculously come across this story, thank you for the company. And that Asian Drama I watch, I told you I thought its name was Kill Me Softly, its name is actually Kill Me Love Me).  

I also asked her about the difficulties of moving to a different country, where she informed me it’s likely easier for me to do so than it was for her, despite my lack of a proper career. She offered recommendations, some of which I had already considered, like teaching English as a Second Language. She also mentioned travel writing or blogging, which I obviously also had already explored. A new option mentioned however was to heavily research various countries of interest, learn their related policies for immigration, and only once I have my heart set on a country, work from there; figure out the more favorable or possible parh. I always had my heart on moving to Japan one day, but seeing that it’s among one of the most restrictive countries in the world, seeking alternatives may be a smarter path. 

The Rift of Susan Creek Falls.

We ended our time together at Susan Creek Falls. Another quick Falls tainted by fallen trees that also served as a bridge to a closer approach, the Falls themselves hid beyond a narrow rift. The beautiful, unique sight, perfectly concluded the journey across the 172-mile Rogue-Umpqua Highway nicknamed the “Highway of Waterfalls.”

When I arrived at Roseburg, I regained phone service and was alerted of a text from one of the aunts I met at Crater Lake. She informed me of their plans to forage for mushrooms in Oakridge. I didn’t have any further plans for the rest of my trip, the highway was meant to take longer to explore, so meeting them at Oakridge seemed as good an idea as any other. They inevitably cancelled that activity after recommendations from locals, though, so I was once again required to improvise. Thankfully, I discovered Oakridge along the way to Bend and had the opportunity and time to pursue my original plan after all. Plus, driving to Bend then meant a shorter drive home later. In contrast to my first day in Oregon, Bend taught me the meaning of love. 

Without an itinerary, I resorted to simply exploring what I discovered to be the most glorious peaceful town I have visited in the States. Simply typing “Bend, Oregon” into Google Maps led me to Drake Park, a gorgeous venue surrounding a pond perfect for a quick driving break as I sought out dinner plans. I noticed a few locals chilling in a front yard and perpetuated that experimental behavior to ignite conversation by asking them directly for recommendations. They offered many suggestions but ultimately convinced me toward the Old Mill District at the revelation of an outdoor concert played by the legendary Sting. 

The chosen restaurant and the concert stage were divided by the Deschutes River flowing down the middle of the town. I was too far away to see the performance even on the screens but close enough to hear, so I still considered it a free concert. The nearby staff officials seemed unbothered by pedestrians walking down the river listening to the concert, so I paced back and forth repeatedly, mostly in awe of the town, the district, and the absolutely mesmerizing Deschutes, until they eventually closed off the walkway parallel to the river likely due to too many stopping for longer than preferred. That just directed the crowd to the bridge though, where I was dragged into a picture with random strangers for reasons I never discovered. There wasn’t anything the staff officials could do about the countless paddleboarders listening along the river though. 

Paddleboarding concert-goers along the Deschutes River in the Old Mill District.

I spent several hours combined between the two days I spent there exploring the Old Mill District and its surrounding areas. Many times when I travel in the States, it is in search of a next home whenever I decide to conclude my tenure in Salt Lake. That mindset drove my desire to simply explore the town and navigate its chaotic road layout instead of pursuing activities like paddleboarding the Deschutes or visiting Bend’s premiere rock climbing destination in Smith Rock State Park. It’s easy to research surrounding activities Bend has to offer, but to fully understand the town is only learned by exploring, and that exploration has helped me effectively see myself living there one day. 

I spent my only night in Bend boondocking in the Blockbuster parking lot. I have no nostalgic attachments to Blockbuster; my hometown hosted several other video rental store chains back in the day. Bend’s blockbuster is the first and only location I will ever visit. I think curiosity mostly influenced my decision to visit, wondering how Blockbuster has stood the test of time in a world where DVD’s and VCR’s now seem archaic. While the store can still be classified as a video rental for the locals, it also now serves as a hybrid merchandise shop and museum, displaying various artifacts from the company’s and the industry’s past. I found movie costumes from Indiana Jones and Back to the Future in glass cases, newspaper articles about Blockbuster’s survival and old movie posters. It’s truly impressive how the company has endured for so long. 

Waking up to a one of a kind view.

Nearing the end of my time in Bend, embarking in a couple hours for a 10 hour return journey, I prioritized one final stop, a store run by one of my Salt Lake friend’s mother up in Redmond about 20 minutes north of Bend. I gave no head’s up to my friend about my arrival, nor to his mother who I had never met before anyway. But he had recommended one of her sandwiches and, given the long drive ahead of me, it seemed like a beneficial visit (and it was. If any of my readers ever find themself in Redmond, check out Schoolhouse Produce.) 

I had time for one other recommendation just outside Bend: Pilot Butte that offered aerial views of the entire town and its nearby mountain peaks. Many hike from its base to the top, which  I estimate can take maybe 30-45 minutes, but in a hurry I opted for driving to the Butte’s top. The 360° view also revealed to me the route of my upcoming drive, a return to the hellish desert landscapes that I then decided to delay by extending my time at the Butte. But the journey was inevitable.

I have always prided myself in my high level patience and tolerance. I very recently endured a multiple hour-long conversation though with a stranger I had no investment in, that endlessly dragged on despite his continuous comments that he’d let me go, that I was too patient to inform him I had better stuff to do. This same conversation hinted to me that my patience may come at an expense and so now I may act subconsciously to contradict the virtue I have always admired about myself. That has proven exceedingly dangerous and life-threatening, and the events that transpired on this drive as result of this internal struggle are difficult to talk about in person, and will likely never be detailed anywhere other than these upcoming words. The road stretched along a desert in the middle of nowhere on an endless single lane road, one for each direction of traffic. I lacked experience driving on such narrow roads, relatively new still to the grossly unpopulated Wild West compared to the Eastern US where civilization thrived everywhere. The inexperience led to defying my characteristic patience, passing a campervan that when I now look back on it may have been unnecessary; I don’t recall it going much slower than I was, but I chose to pass it anyway, misjudging the distance between myself and oncoming traffic and coming within seconds of risking a potentially fatal accident (I did feel as if my vehicle wasn’t accelerating as fast as it should and I later discovered my floor mat covering part of my gas pedal, so that may have also factored into the near accident). After I avoided the tragedy, I kept going as if nothing happened, not welcoming the opportunity for witnesses to confront me. I didn’t need strangers yelling at me to realize I messed up, and the repercussions of that mistake have distracted me for the weeks since, details I could spend an entire other story analyzing. In summary, discovering that my patience is flawed and that I overcorrect that flaw to extreme and dangerous measures is scarier than the near death experience itself. 

A Study Abroad

Imagine stepping out of your hostel and immediately, not yet even beyond the door frame, gazing upon a landscape of dawn, a rising sun hovering over a gentle mountainous lake. 

Imagine these Muses of Nature, convincing you to heed the Songs of Adventure, to not return to slumber but instead to venture the Fields of Tranquility. 

Imagine wandering through a fantastical land reminiscent of Middle-Earth, roleplaying as a member of the Fellowship, visiting cities with names even the locals can’t pronounce. 

Imagine walking through a blanket of clouds as you ascend the mountain, revealing what was once obscured. 

Imagine experiencing this in solitude, with a complete absence of civilization, a union of Man and Mother Nature.

Sunrise views from the Hostel.

These fantasies became my reality, moments I’ll always remember during my week-long travels to Wales. Despite traveling with a friend who did not share the same passion for the outdoors, I seized numerous opportunities to enjoy the natural blessings I had been given. Our hostel was located at the base of a National Trust Site, a conservation charity, which included two relatively short hikes to separate yet equally divine alpine lakes. The blessings inspired me to break a life-long tradition (which has only been broken 2 times previously) of not waking up before 6am, allowing me to witness the sunrise and nearby hikes and return to the room before my friend woke. 

These fantasies are perhaps exaggerated by the sheer awe I perceived for every little detail of that country, literally from the brick-built parking lots to the aforementioned cloud-obscured mountains. As I had been to the UK before, I spent a lot of time on this trip experimenting with a type of travel I have neglected in the past: Immersion. Most of my trips historically have consisted of following a strict itinerary of seeing and doing touristy things and not so much as experiencing the culture. This trip remedied that. I allowed for time to simply wander their towns, falling in love with their architectural aesthetic that every building shared: rustic brown, built with brick and thatched roofs. These are qualities known for the traditional villages, though even the more recently developed cities matched aesthetic from building to building despite straying slightly from this traditional style. 

Bourton-on-the-Water.

Such a village was actually one of my first stops in the trip (second after the pub featured in Ted Lasso, which I disappointedly discovered was merely the inspiration for their set piece and not the film site): Bourton-on-the-Water inside the Cotswolds Area of Natural Beauty. This village is the definition of Traditional English villages, from the Rustic style architecture to its very name. Perched along the River Windrush, the village practiced a peaceful facade while the lacking presence of motor vehicles mastered it. The vehicles still existed, parked along the curbs and tainting the village aesthetic, but with numbers heavily reduced compared to American towns. In fact, I have found that most European countries rely less on motor vehicles than the States and I’ve felt at peace pretty much everywhere I’ve gone in that continent. 

This new experimental travel approach was assisted by several mates of mine who live across the pond, helping me that week to live like a local. They showed me a true English vacation, which included a weekend at a caravan (essentially a mobile home) rental, arcade and swimming pool at a chain company called Haven. I’m not generally one for relaxing whilst traveling but it did allow for quality time with mates I already had limited time with. 

Over that weekend they introduced me to a traditional English Roast Dinner, several servings of English Tea, and (one of the main reasons I flew out to the UK as I forgot to indulge in this during my last visit) an English Breakfast. These meals were culinary delights despite their simplistic recipes; the Roast Dinner is literally just a mix (or choice) of beef, turkey and gammon (which in America is simply called Ham. A favorite pastime on this trip was learning all their different terminology for such common words), with added potatoes, stuffing, gravy and yorkshire pudding. The English Breakfast is also a buffet of varying flavors consisting typically of bacon, eggs, toast, pudding, beans, mushrooms and tomatoes. I also prioritized the iconic Fish and Chips (which in Britain is what they called Fries) during that week, as well as a bag of Jelly babies, which every fan of Doctor Who should taste at least once in their lifetime. None of these meals were exactly life-changing tastes, but for the sake of immersing myself with the culture, I would 100% try them all again. In fact, with all the relatively easy ingredients, I could eat like a Brit in the States. But let’s get back to actually sharing the experience of my trip, shall we?

I embarked on my journey through the UK from Gatwick airport, where one such mate picked me up. Now, before I proceed further, I find it important to note that none of these mates I would dedicate time to on this trip had I met before in person; they were strictly online relationships up to this point.  As I would soon learn, people have online personas and then they also have in-person personas. That’s not to foreshadow a severe discomfort or anything but, for the mate that picked me up, I suppose I underestimated exactly how that experience would go. 

I had heard rumors before about the differences between American driving and British driving, though I hadn’t really understood what those rumors were. I figured 6 hours on the road is still 6 hours, right? Well it’s not quite that simple, as I would come to realize. You see, in America, 6 hours often means a straight shot down a highway. In Britain, however, that means a constant focus on endless curves through the countryside, a likely mentally exhausting feat that requires frequent stops at one of Britain’s many service stations (their equivalent, albeit more advanced with their inclusion of gas stations and full restaurants, to America’s rest areas). Having grown up driving 10+ hours stopping only for gas, I had to adjust to the significant drop of stopping every couple hours.  

That wasn’t the only detriment to the trip either, for my mate decided to torture me with an endless personal sing-along concert to various female pop artists and musical soundtracks. I discovered her aggressive road rage that countered my passive patience. And the logic behind some of her decisions didn’t make sense to me but there’s a bias there if such decisions meant the removal of an itinerary item. For fear of offending anyone, I should point out that most of this is sarcasm. I actually didn’t mind her concert because I recognized the extremity of the favor I requested of her; while driving 6 hours is miniscule to me, I understand it’s significant time for most other people. It was only fair that I allow her the opportunity to enjoy the drive more. Plus, I had gorgeous countryside to stare at. She sacrificed a lot for me to enjoy my trip, including waiting in the car while I ran off chasing waterfalls, so I was not about to complain. I compromised when I could. Yes, had the trip operated the same way most of my trips do, I likely would have seen more. But I still saw almost everything on my list, and even let my friends introduce me to additional items I hadn’t researched beforehand. Some of those were even the best parts of the trip. 

Imagine an underground playground, an abandoned mine repurposed into a miniature golf course. That environment alone should attract the general populace but when you add in actual well-designed holes, it’s an automatic highlight. There was one hole that converted the tee into an elevated platform that shifted out of balance every time we added weight, which made it difficult to position oneself for the most efficient shot but a cool feature nonetheless. There was another feature near the final hole that allowed golfers to ‘follow their ball’ down to the next section of play after hitting it into a hole by sliding down a massive slide, of which my body of course would refuse to slide and required me to instead scooch awkwardly. There were other highlights I had researched beforehand, for very good reason, that I was able to introduce my friends to. 

Zip World Underground Miniature Golf.

In the Southwest US, in the region spanning from California, Texas and Colorado, there is a chain of art museums called Meow Wolf. Admittedly, calling it an art museum is an understatement. I have never been able to describe it faithfully and suggest you google it sometime for the best I can do is call it an interactive exhibit. Every location guides visitors through different stories that connect distantly to the other locations, traversing portals into different worlds. It’s a highly successful chain that has inspired businesses globally, including the final highlight of my trip in Bristol called Wake the Tiger. Whilst navigating the maze of the exhibit, I had a chinwag with a staffer about Meow Wolf (which I discovered is taboo for them due to a rumored lawsuit). I assured her that the two companies had their fair share of differences and that no one should have a monopoly on art, that the lawsuit should be thrust into a time machine and shredded in whatever conference room it originated. 

Wake the Tiger.

During that same weekend in Haven (the chronologicality of this story was doomed from the start), my friends and I visited an Italian-inspired village off the Welsh coast of the Irish Sea named Portmeirion. Growing up in the inland USA, I have only directly seen the ocean twice and the bodies of water I am fond of have no ability to follow the logics of tide. Arriving at Portmeirion in the morning and hiking up to a viewpoint revealed only a parched strait, yet by the time I ventured along the coast after lunch, the tides had refilled that strait. It was not a science I have witnessed firsthand before and I hadn’t even realized the science until one of my mates pointed it out. 

The town itself successfully reminded me of my travels in Italy, efficiently imitating the architecture and environment. Overlooking the bay, I could envision the Irish Sea replaced by the Mediterranean. The single meal I tasted was iconically British though.

Following the weekend at Haven, we drove up to the paradise featured as my hook to this story, Snowdonia National Park. Centrally located to the majority of the rest of my itinerary, from my hostel I was able to reach Wales’ northernmost point in Anglesey (some of the most gorgeous cliffs I have seen), visit a castle, several gorgeous hikes taken out of a fantasy novel, explore a British college town, and visit the longest single word named city on the continent (second in the world, and no I am not even going to attempt to spell it for you. I’ll let the picture do that task for me. I simply call it Llanfair.)

Llanfair Train Station.

For fear of a long queue and extensive detour, I initially skipped a visit to Stonehenge. I thus ended my tour of the British Isles with a quick stop to a Stonehenge substitute, another circle of rocks historically important to the locals, less impressive than Henge, but backdropped by endless fields that maintained a quality worth visiting called the Rollright Stones. Standing in the outskirts of the Cotswolds, the Rollright Stones proved an adequate alternative to the much busier Stonehenge, permitting street parking for a quick 50-100 foot hike to the stones.

Rollright Stones.

Another intention while planning for this trip was to experience an (inter)National Park amidst all the chaos ravaging those in the States. I don’t think I could have picked a better park than Snowdonia, an absolute thrill even out of its tourist season (although if I had left even just a day later I could have enhanced the journey with a train ride through the countryside and up to Snowdonia’s highest peak. Instead I had to settle for a much shorter train ride along a single side of a lake). 

Llanberis Train.

I drank with a couple locals in the lounge of my hostel, discussing the park “situation.” I had realized that, driving into Snowdonia, we never passed an entry toll booth like you have to in the States (though I have been to a couple US National Parks where these booths can be avoided if one found the proper back roads). I also realized that I hadn’t seen a single park ranger. These factors piqued the curiosity I addressed to the locals, one an army soldier nearing the end of his station and the other a retiree. They informed me how their parks were mostly operated by volunteers and funded by donations.

I discovered on my own another source of funding granted by an endless parade of parking lot fees (or as the Brits call them, Car Parks). And I mean endless in the literal sense. You think this business has its own private parking for its customers? It’ll cost you £3. I also encountered a few toll booths for entry into individual points of interest. Swallow Falls, located just outside Betws-y-coed, has an entry fee of £2 that goes toward managing that section of Snowdonia. There is also another interesting factor contributing to National Park conservation: businesses. 

Through further research after my return to the States, I discovered the key differences between parks in the UK and in the US. The US National Parks are owned by the government and established to protect wildlife and natural resources. They rarely include permanent human communities. In the UK though, National Parks were established around already developed settlements and owned privately, not technically qualifying as “National Parks” according to internationally accepted standards. They are instead developed as areas of natural beauty to protect landscapes and, while controlled privately, do still have committees to restrict further development that may taint that landscape. 

Snowdonia (Eryri) National Park.

I reflected on this information a lot during this trip, really trying to ‘learn’ something as I believe traveling does help teach and open eyes to the world. I can’t help but wonder if there’s something the US can do to adjust the operations of our own Parks. The chaos of these layoffs is aggressive due to decades-long systemic policies. It’s doubtful we would reach the same level of management as the UK. Despite the obvious reasons we cannot apply the same policies to our parks, we can perhaps learn from them. 

I myself learned quite a bit on that trip: about Wales, about the World, but also about myself. Maybe it’s a factor of having traveled to 14 countries or 30 States, maybe it’s simply a pure captivation of a different world, but I had my own eye-opener that week to a dark secret: I want to live outside of the US. The operations of other countries to me just seem more logical, many nations are more advanced, and people are in general more considerate of each other. I may have joked about my friends kidnapping me so I never have to go home, but a good chunk of me seriously considered something, anything to keep me there. Alas, I returned home, inspired to alter the trajectory of my life despite spending the last decade refusing to invest in a future that may never come, living every moment in the present the best that I can. 

I now imagine a life full of possibilities, a freelancer on the road writing and sharing stories that will enlighten the world.

I now imagine a life shifting from station to station teaching English to non-natives, living in exotic countries and immersing myself into countless different cultures. 

I now imagine a life in the sky, attending to flight passengers, staying in hotels every other night in strange new cities. 

I now imagine a life as an advisor, plotting the most memorable, exciting, and life-changing adventures a client could ask for. 

I now imagine a life on screen, portraying characters of varying qualities, behaviors, and mannerisms.

I now imagine all these different versions of me that died years ago, abandoned dreams begging for reclamation. This trip brought fantasies to life. It is time I reinvigorate a few more fantasies of my own.